Chemical Peel, considered.
One of the oldest dermatological procedures still in regular use, and one of the most misunderstood. The aggressive peels of the 1990s have given way to graduated depths, predictable results, and minimal downtime.
Three depths, three different conversations.
Superficial peels (glycolic, lactic, salicylic, mandelic) work in the epidermis. Minimal downtime, repeatable monthly, ideal for tone and mild texture. Medium peels (TCA 20–35%) reach the upper dermis; recovery is 5–7 days. Deep peels (phenol, croton oil) are surgical-grade and now rarely performed outside specialized practices.
The vast majority of modern aesthetic peels are superficial or light-medium. The dramatic Cleopatra-bath imagery is a relic of an earlier era of dermatology.
What peels are good for, and not.
Hyperpigmentation, melasma, mild photoaging, fine lines, dullness, and acne respond well. Active rosacea, deeply set wrinkles, and severe laxity do not — laser or surgery is the better tool for those.
Skin tone matters. Glycolic and salicylic peels are safe across most skin types. TCA peels above 20% on darker skin require an experienced clinician — risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation rises sharply.
The series, the maintenance.
Three to six superficial peels, four weeks apart, is the standard initial course. Most people see improvement after the second session and meaningful change after the fourth.
Maintenance is two to four peels a year, paired with daily sunscreen and a retinoid. Without sunscreen, every peel partially undoes itself within a season.
Common questions.
Will my skin actually peel?
Superficial peels often cause only mild flaking on day 3–5. Medium peels produce visible peeling for 5–7 days. Picking the skin during this window is the single fastest way to cause scarring or pigmentation.
Peel vs microneedling — which?
Peels excel at tone, pigmentation, and dullness. Microneedling excels at scarring, pores, and texture. Combined in a treatment plan they cover most surface concerns.
Can I do peels at home?
Low-percentage AHA/BHA toners are safe and effective. Higher-strength peels at home (above 30% glycolic, any TCA) are not — burns, scarring, and pigmentation problems are common.
Is it safe for darker skin?
Mandelic and lactic peels are well-tolerated across all skin types. Glycolic in lower percentages is fine. TCA at 20%+ requires a clinician experienced with Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin specifically.
How soon can I wear makeup?
Superficial peel: same day or next morning. Medium peel: 5–7 days, only mineral makeup, only after the peeling phase ends.